The Thrill Of Surfing

Author: Jim Brown

Most surfers feel the thrill of surfing long before they buy their first surfboard. Some aspiring surfers might have innocently dabbled with surfing on the shoreline using boogie boards or spare pieces of plastic. An aspiring surfer is one that has spent many vacations at the beach and in the surf and at some point, they might have developed a yearning to learn how to ride a board on top of a wave.

After they have committed their heart to surfing, by buying a surfboard that will meet their needs, they find that they have many things to learn along the way to ride the board the way they envision it is possible in their head. All of the things that they learn along the way are certain to be thrilling, but what they learn about themselves will stay with them for the rest of... their lives. To perfect their surfing style, they might have performed tricks that they were not aware of and the surfer probably never knew that they were actually surfing if someone had not told them.

The inspiration to learn how to surf might have come from surfers who were on the beach and in the water during those vacations. Some vacationers are positively thrilled to learn that there are surfers on the beach who are under the age of seven. Many eyes might be focused on a surfer in the distance that has an uncanny ability to ride the waves with what seems to be a short surfboard underneath them.

Many people will be thrilled when they get to see the surfer paddling out toward the waves with a surfboard and many will wonder if the surfer is aware of the number of people who are in the water with them. Some people might mistake the thrilling feeling that they have because fear and thrill sensations run so close together. Every trick that a spectator views is likely to make them sit up and take notice, and more for worry than the thrill of watching them attempt daring feats on a board that is not as tall as the surfer is.

Some people will enjoy the thrills of surfing without ever trying to surf. These people are content to spend the day with family and friends at the beach and find true enjoyment out of watching surfers perform various tricks. Some of those tricks will seem quite daring and make that person glad that they have their feet firmly planted on the shore. Some friends in the group might want to give surfing a try but will wait until they have a better day to do it.

Other people find surfing thrills between the covers of sports magazines. Some will sit poolside at home and dream of the day that they take their turn on a surfboard. That day might not ever come, but at least the person is enjoying a day in the sun, just like the surfers are on a beach far away. The person that is sitting in the middle of suburbia can at least pursue some surfing dreams by latching onto the imagination of a surfer who stopped surfing long enough to put the action in writing.




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